Weather was perfect Saturday (3-28-09), so I hiked to Kolob Arch in the Zion National Park backcountry. It was a great hike through beautiful country, to an impressive natural arch.(Also see our our photos and video clip.)
I went in on two legs, but only had one good leg for the hike out. I was looking for photo opts instead of watching the trail. I slipped while crossing a steep slope and fell hard, twisting my right ankle, when we were near the top of a rugged canyon just below the arch. I could barely stand up, let alone walk, but I bravely started the long trek back to the truck. What else could I do? The pain was intense and for a time I thought maybe my hiking career was over - that I'd have to start spending my spare time fishing from my boat.
With considerable exertion, I found I could scoot and crab-walk over obstacles and then hobble up the more level portions of the trail. After a couple miles I actually started to feel a little better, when the ankle limbered up a bit and the Ibuprofen kicked in. I made it out without any further problems.
I'm already noticing daily improvement so I'll probably be out hiking again in 2-3 weeks. That's good because there are a couple more major hikes on my spring agenda. (Just fun little outings like Buckskin Gulch and Dark Canyon.)
It's 6.5 miles to the viewpoint below the arch, from the Lees Pass Trailhead in the Kolob Canyons area of Zion Park. It is a moderate hike along well-defined trails that follow Timber Creek and then La Verkin Creek into the backcountry. A side canyon forks from La Verkin Creek and you follow it for about 1/2 mile up to a viewpoint below the arch.
From the trailhead you drop quickly to Timber Creek, and that means you face a steep uphill climb at the very end of your return trip, most commonly experienced during the afternoon when the sun is hot. The trail is mostly flat along La Verkin Creek. You trudge through some sand but it is relatively easy going. The side canyon that you follow from La Verkin Creek up to the arch is steep and full of big rocks, so that leg requires some scrambling.
All in all, I'd rate the route as moderate, although the National Park Service has it as strenuous.
Another option is to start on Kolob Terrace and hike down Hop Valley to La Verkin Creek, down La Verkin Creek, up the side canyon, up the side canyon to the arch, and down La Verkin Creek so you can end at Lees Pass. That route is about 14.5 miles one-way and requires a vehicle shuttle.
We did it as a day hike - taking about 7.5 hours, even with the sprained ankle. Many people do it as an overnight backpack. There are excellent formally designated camping sites along the trail. Day hikers don't need any special pass, but backpackers much get an overnight permit. The permits go fast so plan ahead if you want to backpack.
Water is abundant along the route, but you need to filter or treat it. La Verkin Creek was running high and muddy, and wasn't appealing. After runoff it will be much cleaner. It does offer several very nice swimming holes. Timber Creek and the small stream the comes down the side canyon below the arch both offer clear, cold water.
Kolob was long though to be the largest natural arch in the world, but recent measurements show its span is slightly smaller than Landscape Arch. So, Kolob has been bumped to number two.
The arch is a spectacular sight - definitely worth seeing. But the entire route is enjoyable, with classic Zion Park scenery.
This is a backcountry area - one of the most park's most popular backcountry areas - so plan on seeing people along the route. Spring and fall are ideal times to hike. Temps are very hot in July and August.
You cross Timber Creek multiple times, but it is small and easy to rock hop with dry boots. Unless you have a sprained ankle, and then rock hopping becomes torturous. I suspect the hike is more enjoyable when you have two good legs.
