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It’s my daughter’s fault that I’m relaxing on a beach here in Monterrico, Guatemala, reminiscing about a fun trip where we mountain biked technical singletrack, explored an ancient Mayan ruin, kayaked across one of the most beautiful lakes in the world and climbed an active volcano searching for flowing lava.Fresh out of high school, excited to go to college, Xanthe decided to spend part of the summer doing volunteer work at an orphanage in a developing nation. “Right,” I said to myself, not taking her seriously. But a few months later, when she had $1,000 in the bank, I decided she was serious and so I started to learn about Guatemala.
A friend works for a non-profit organization down there and she set up the volunteer stint. I wanted to let Xanthe see some of the sights and so I started doing Internet research about possible destinations. I soon discovered Guatemala does not offer posh, trendy resorts. Rather, it has many great albeit little-known wonders that appealed to my sense of adventure. Not wanting my little blond girl to wander around down there all alone, I happily volunteered to tour with her. (She was still on her own at the orphanage.)
I discovered that Guatemala is best known for its Mayan ruins (including Tikal and other famous sites). The country also boasts majestic volcanoes (three of which are active). Another well-known attraction is Lake Atitlan (which locals proudly describe as the most beautiful lake in the world). Atitlan is indeed beautiful, surrounded to towering, heavily forested volcanoes that climb almost straight up from the shoreline. Atitlan has become a refuge for displaced Europeans and Americans because it is beautiful, the weather is perfect (around 75F most days of the year), and the cost of living is low.
Lesser-known attractions include the country’s vast jungle/rain forest region, its wide rivers (including scenic waterfalls and some whitewater), and a long stretch of Pacific coast beach that is beautiful but almost deserted.It soon became obvious that we could never see all interesting attractions in one visit. We decided to focus on the western side (since that is where the orphanage is located).
Usually when I travel I like a flexible schedule so I can wander a bit, adjusting to circumstance and my fickle whims. Not this time. Since I don’t know Spanish, and didn’t know the country, I elected to take the fat tourist approach and had a booking agency arrange a customized, fully-guided excursion. I told the people at enjoyguatemala.com what I wanted to do and they arranged transportation, hotels and guides.
Our trip unfolded exactly as planned and we had a very enjoyable time. Our guides were excellent (personable and knowledgeable about their sports). They kept us out of trouble and made sure we had fun.
We began by exploring Iximche, a small complex of post-classic Mayan ruins. I learned that indigenous people consider these sites to be sacred. Some come there to burn candles and perform religious ceremonies. While we were there a small group assembled on one ancient structure and played traditional music, some using traditional instruments. The music was beautiful and the performers, in brightly colored costumes, created a memorable scene.Next we biked down a mountain above Lake Atitlan. We started out on a dirt road, riding past cultivated fields and a small village. The countryside is beautiful and that part of the ride was pleasant. We stopped briefly at a lean-to where several women were working, hand weaving cloth for rugs and clothing items. With the women’s permission, I took several photos. I understand it is customary is to offer payment when you photograph natives; I did so and the women looked grateful.
We continued our trek and soon turned off onto a rougher road, which crossed a stream several times. Ah, a little excitement. The road gave way to rocky singletrack, which plunged over cut banks where it crossed the stream. That part of the trail was technical enough that I had to get off and walk my bike over some spots.I’m from Utah (USA), and we Utahns think we invented mountain biking. I’m not a great rider but I enjoy the sport and I’ve ridded with guides over some highly touted trails. That Guatemalan route was pretty good. And our guide really was excellent. He put us on good quality bikes and provided helmets and riding gloves. He was very enthusiastic about biking. Put him in Moab and he could work for any of the guide services there.
I learned that mountain biking is starting to catch on as a sport in Guatemala. Natives ride bikes everywhere, as a practical matter, but now some people are riding for sport, and blazing new trails through the volcanic mountains. The country has real potential for serious biking.
To end our ride we coasted down a paved road through the village of Panajachel, to the shoreline of Lake Atitlan. We ate lunch there and visited the open-air market. My sales resistance was low and I bought more than I intended. It is hard to walk away from the persistent little children and sad-faced old ladies.Next we kayaked partway around the lake - paddling until we were good and tired. The villages around the lakeshore are very picturesque - picture postcard views in every direction. Xanthe couldn’t resist jumping into the clear water, which was cool but not cold.
I understand the lake offers good bass fishing, but I didn’t have time to try.
The next morning we meet our guide early and headed out to climb Pacaya Volcano. Hikes are possible on several Guatemalan volcanoes; some routes are quite challenging and a couple routes require multi-day backpacks. Pacaya is not one of the difficult ones. You can drive most of the way up the mountain and it is easy hiking the rest of the way if you stay on the well-established trail.
Pacaya is attractive because it is alive and unpredictable. During the past few months it has been erupting, slowly, with a continual small lava flow. Before that it threw a violent fit and shot ash out over Guatemala City, 18 miles away. The lava flow changes from day to day. Sometimes you can see the flow. Our guide hoped to get us up close enough that he could poke a stick into it. He had us hike a faint trail along the rim, searching for the lava.
We could hear it hiss and pop, but a cloud had settled onto the mountain and the mist made it impossible to see very far. It also made it dangerous to descend off the steep rim. We tried hard to find the flow, but gave up when the clouds thickened around us.
We hiked out onto new lava - which had completely filled up a valley during a large eruption last April. In spots you could feel heat coming up through the rocks. In one spot our guide shoved a stick down into the rocks and it instantly started on fire. Lava was close, right under us, but we couldn’t see it.
Pacaya is lush, like a manicured garden. Short grass, towering tress and flowers everywhere. It was beautiful in the midst.
To complete our tour we spent a night at a resort on the beach at Monterrico. The beach there is very nice, with clean black volcanic sand stretching for miles. The waves are strong and there can be strong riptides. That makes it tickly to swim, body surf or surf. But it also makes it exciting.
Small resorts and private residences sit just off the beach, along the scenic shoreline. But I was surprised because the beach was almost deserted. Even on Sunday there were only scattered groups here and there. And the beachgoers were all Guatemalans, as near as I could tell. Spanish was the only language I heard.
I gathered that the other people at our resort were young professionals with their families, taking a weekend break. The area has the potential to become a popular tourist spot, but the infrastructure (access roads, in particular) would need significant improvements.
I understand there is a small but growing local surfing community, although I did not see a single surfer.
The Guatemalan coast offers great deep-sea fishing, particularly for billfish, but I didn’t have time to try it.
It was a great trip. Now I’m anxious to go back. I think I’ll need to make several trips. I’ll be back, soon, exploring the classic Mayan ruins. I also want to boat into the jungle from the country’s small Caribbean coast. I’ve been told that Guatemala’s Caribbean coast provides easy access to the famous diving and fishing areas off Belize - that access is easier and less expensive coming from Guatemala than from Belize.
I’d also like to go deep sea fishing on the Pacific side.
Adventuring in Guatemala is affordable - I was pleasantly surprised at how cheap it is to fly to the country, stay in nice hotels and hire guides. Guatemala is one of those developing destinations not yet overrun by tourists, where you can enjoy great adventure at an affordable price.
But the country does have its problems. Traveler safety is an issue. When we read the US State Department synopsis on Guatemala we were concerned because it says there have been aggressive, violent attacks. That’s one reason I elected to go with guides rather than attempt a do-it-yourself adventure. But we had no problems and never felt threatened in any way. We took measures to minimize risk, and found the people to be friendly and hospitable.
Guatemala is a developing country. As you travel you see poverty. Many roads are inadequate and driving can be hectic. Many towns are congested and some areas look dirty and run down.
The country has an efficient bus system - busses go everywhere and it is very inexpensive to ride them. They are affectionately known as “chicken buses.” They are always crowded, with some people carrying produce and/or chickens and other farm animals. I would not recommend riding the chicken buses unless you speak Spanish fluently and take the time to learn about the culture and bus routes.
If you cruise to Jamaica or fly into fly into Puerto Vallarta you have a sanitized experience. Everything is beautiful. Third World? What Third World?
Now I enjoy a firm mattress, clean sheets and a nice steak. I don’t want to plunge headlong into trouble. But I enjoy meeting real people in real communities, muddy roads notwithstanding. I prefer to avoid sanitized resorts.
If you are really interested in seeing the country and meeting its people, consider volunteering at an orphanage. That was the highlight for my daughter.
Details:
Map of Guatemala
I booked through enjoyguatemala.com and they were excellent.
I enjoyed these tours:
Lake Atitlan Multiadventure
Pacaya Volcano Hike
Most major US airlines fly into Guatemala City
I flew Delta from Salt Lake City (SLC) to LAX to Guatemala (GUA)
Most tourists say in Antigua, an interesting colonial city. It offers several quality hotels geared for American and European tourists, plus a large central marketplace where you can buy anything - literally. Prices are good. Most tours leave from Antigua hotels. If you don’t book ahead of time, you can always find tours once you arrive in Antigua. Just walk through the market and you’ll see a number of companies.
I stayed at the Real Plaza Hotel in Antigua, Hotel Utz-Tzaba in Monterrico and Hotel Stofella in Guatemala City. All were mid-priced, comfortable and clean.
