Fun In The St. George Sun

I'm heading to St. George, Utah, for the weekend, to enjoy some much needed recreation. I've been pushing hard to build my business, working way to hard and not taking time out to relax and recreate.

I plan to hike in Snow Canyon - conditions should be perfect there right now. I'll also probably hit one of the nearby reservoirs and get in some late season bass fishing.

I'm curious, what do you enjoy doing in Utah's Dixie in the fall? I escape to that are often and I have my personal favorites, but I'm always interested in hearing new ideas.

- Dave Webb

Early Snow Excites Utah Skiers And Snowmobilers

Crazy heavy snow fell in some areas in Utah overnight, with more expected tonight and tomorrow.

Powder Mountain picked up a couple feet of powder and people hit the slopes with their skis and boards. We are also hearing about people skiing at Snowbasin and at the Park City area resorts. Skiutah.com provided the video below.

Snowmobile enthusiasts are also excited by the new snow. Beaver Creek Lodge, in Logan Canyon, received heavy snow and that may lead to early snowmobile opportunities, depending on the weather during the next couple weeks. I know and recommend Beaver Creek Lodge - it is my favorite snowmobile vacation lodge.

Here's the skiutah.com video:

Exploring & Fishing Cathedral In The Desert

Cathedral In The Desert

In 2005 I explored a beautiful grotto at Lake Powell, a place called Cathedral In the Desert. The Cathedral has become an icon, a symbol of everything lost when Lake Powell's waters inundated Glen Canyon.

A multi-year drought dropped the lake to a low level and the large waterfall in the Cathedral was fully exposed. Many people boated into the canyon to see the wondrous site. Some people hoped the drought would continue and the lake would dry up.

But the lake level has risen in recent years and there is now 10 feet of water over the top of the main waterfall. People can boat right over it, to a second smaller waterfall at the back of the canyon.

Last week DWR Lake Powell Project Leader Wayne Gustaveson boated into the Cathedral and caught some nice fish. See more about his report.

I'd love to get down there and see the second waterfall. It was not accessible when I made the trip in 2006.

Rattlesnake Facts and Stories

My father, LaVarr B. Webb, has written a series of fun stories about his adventures growing up in Utah's Dixie. Many deal with rattlesnakes. You can read the rattlesnake stories here.

I've also had many experiences with rattlesnakes. While growing up my family lived on the outskirts of the tiny town of Leeds, near St. George. We built a couple houses in the sagebrush on the edge of the wilderness. We often found rattlesnakes up against the house foundation, and more out in the barn.

We had animals, cows, pigs, chickens, and mice would come in to scavenger for feed grain and other food items. And, or course, snakes would come in hunting for mice. We found many a rattlesnake in the grain sack.

I've also encountered many rattlesnakes while fishing, hiking, camping and hunting. It is always exciting when you are jumping from one side of the creek to the other and midway across you see a snake tail twitching right where you are schedule to land. It is difficult but not impossible to change directions mid-flight.

When I was young we killed all rattlesnakes on sight. We chopped off heads with shovels, beat them to death with tree limbs, shot them with shotguns and otherwise dispatched them. We usually collected their rattles and often had long strings to show as trophies.

Now days I prefer to live and let live. If I see a rattler near a populated area I call animal control and they relocate the snake. If the snake is out in the wild, I leave it along. I've never seen a rattlesnake that didn't try to get away. If they are given a chance, they will flee rather than fight. In the days when I killed them I always had to chase them down. It was never the other way around.

Here are some facts and facilities about rattlesnakes, taken from my research and personal experience.

1. Rattlesnakes are aggressive and will chase you to bit you. Wrong. If they can, they will get away. If you corner them they will fight.

2. Rattlesnakes will launch into the air and strike you, even if you are many feet way. Wrong. The snakes' strike range is only about half the length of their bodies. They can't launch their entire body off the ground.

3. Rattlesnakes always have rattles. The best way to identify a rattler is to look for the rattles. Wrong. Young snakes may not have rattles. Mature snakes that have just molted may not have rattles. The coloration and pattern on the snake's skin may vary widely. The best way to identify a rattlesnake is to look at its head. Rattlesnakes have a distinct diamond shaped head. Other snakes have a rounded head. Look at a couple and you will clearly see the difference.

4. Rattlesnakes can swim. True. I've occasionally seen snakes swim across or down rivers and into lakes.

5. Rattlesnakes can climb trees. True. The snakes are most often seen on the ground but they can be found on logs and sometimes even in lower tree branches.

6. Rattlesnake bites are deadly. If you are bitten you will probably die. Wrong. If you are bitten you will probably get very sick. The area around the bite may swell up and turn black and blue. But in the United States people seldom die from rattlesnake bites.

Every year a small number of people are bitten by rattlesnakes in the U.S. One statistic I read said that 90% of bites occur while the person is drunk and trying to catch the snake. If you don't want to be bitten then don't try to catch snakes while you are drunk.

But don't hesitate to hike, bike, camp and explore. If you are lucky enough to see a snake it will probably be a fleeting view while the snake is fleeing.

- Dave Webb

Dinosaur National Monument Rates Five Stars

The New Zealand Herald has published this article about Dinosaur National Monument. Reporter Brandon Loomis obviously did his homework and has crafted an article that is accurate and interesting. That's a nice change - so many travel pieces are fluffy and full of inaccuracies.

Below we give the article headline and then excerpts.

Utah: Jurassic park sequel a five star hit

It's a one-of-a-kind place where researchers have exposed, but not removed, a 15m x 61m wall of bones.

"Having that magic moment of seeing these dinosaur remains where they were buried is one of the things that is special about this place," says park palaeontologist Dan Chure.

Even hardened scientists stand in awe when they first arrive.

Over the years, until the government decided to preserve the rest of the fossils for viewing, universities and museums removed the bones of more than 600 creatures from either side of the remaining wall. Besides 10 species of dinosaurs, the quarry has yielded a crocodile, two turtles, a lizard, tens of thousands of freshwater clams and carbonised plant remains.

At least 100 individual dinosaurs remain exposed and the profile skull of a plant-eating Camarasaurus is prominent.

Of course, there is more to the monument than bones. The park also offers whitewater rafting and scenic drives or hikes into canyon country. There's riverside desert camping among tiny, scurrying lizards, and recently hundreds of sandhill cranes flapped in the Green River on a migratory stopover, their croaks a reminder of the march of time and biology since the Jurassic Period.

Read the entire article.

- Dave Webb

New Feathered Raptor Dinosaur Fossils Discovered In Utah

Paleontologists in Utah have unearthed fossils from a new dinosaur species, and have now published detailed information about their findings.

The fossils will soon be on display in the Utah Museum of Natural History, in Salt Lake City. The museum is one of several Utah attractions that have great dinosaurs exhibits.

Called Talos sampsonsi, the creature lived in the rainy, "hothouse world" of late-Cretaceous North America, according to this report in National Geographic. The finding is significant for many reasons, some of which are described in the article excerpts below.

Talk about a lucky break—paleontologists have found "incredibly rare" fossils of a new species of raptor dinosaur that severely fractured its giant-clawed foot about 76 million years ago, paleontologists say.

It's one of the few troodontid theropods—small, birdlike predators—ever discovered in North America, said study leader Lindsay Zanno, a vertebrate paleontologist at the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago.

Perhaps most exciting about Talos is its injured second toe, which has added to an existing debate on what troodontids did with the giant, sickle-like claw on that toe, study leader Zanno said.

... Instead, Talos may have wielded its claw like a puncturing device when hunting, for example by getting a foothold as the raptor scrambled up a larger animal's back, Zanno said. Or, like some modern-day birds, the dinosaur may have used the claw as a weapon while fighting with other dinosaur rivals.

It's "giving us a window into the biology of the animal that we don't get from your average, everyday specimen," Zanno said.

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Utah Kicks off Tourism Ad Campaign

Utah has kicked off its summer tourism campaign, which includes TV spots in key markets. Marketers have added a new dimension this year, hoping to convince people that vacationing in Utah can make you healthier. KSL TV has this report. Below are excerpts.

The state is spending $2.4 million on this advertising effort, 80 percent of that on television spots. Tourism leaders say that investment reaps millions more in visits from out of the state and out of the country.

In marketing, it's all about visuals and humor and having a story to tell.

Tourism leaders with the state think they've got all that in the ads with a bright-red, old-school SUV overloaded with gear, their symbol for plenty to do in one of America's most beautiful states.

The governor kicked off the state's summer ad campaign Tuesday, with a new emphasis on how vacationing in Utah can make you healthier.

"We have more hiking trails, more places to walk and recreate, to make yourself get outdoors, become robust, get that blush back in your cheeks, get a little suntan on your forehead, and become healthier and enjoy a healthy lifestyle," Herbert said.

There's a renewed emphasis on Utah's state parks and other things to do.

"You know, one of the great secrets that we are now trying to make un-kept is the great golf venues we have in this state," Herbert said.

The Deseret News has this report. Below are excerpts.

The first thing you notice about the red Jeep Wagoneer is how it is overloaded with virtually every item an outdoor enthusiast could possibly use.

The as-yet-unnamed road trip party vehicle — carrying bicycles, water skis, golf clubs, a canoe, coolers, tents, sleeping bags and a bunch of other stuff — remains one of the centerpieces in the Utah Office of Tourism's spring and summer marketing campaign.

The $2.4 million national advertising campaign officially launched Tuesday at the Capitol.

"Last year, our non-winter campaign … generated over 800,000 visitors into our state and resulted in $56 million of additional tax revenue," Gov. Gary Herbert told the audience in the Capitol rotunda Tuesday. "So, for every dollar we've invested, we get about $18 in return."

"Our messaging is resonating," she (Leigh von der Esch, managing director of the Utah Office of Tourism) said. "Everything you want to do is so close by. You can get to the national parks so quickly. You can do five in a week. Our state parks have fabulous value and (there are also) the rodeos and the community events."

Utah Sand Dunes

Sand dunes are popular play spots, especially for people with dune buggies and ATVs. Utah has two famous sand dune areas:
- Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
- Little Sahara Recreational Area

But we have much more sand that that. The Daily Herald has this article about the White Wash Sand Dunes near the town of Green River. We also have popular dunes in the areas listed below, and minor dunes in many other spots.
- Snow Canyon State Park
- Sand Hollow State Park
- Monument Valley
- Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
- Lake Powell

Below are excerpts from the Herald article.

The White Wash Sand Dunes are located off Interstate 70 in between Green River and the exit to Moab. Travel only 11 miles on a dirt road and you find yourself at a ridge overlooking an exciting view of slickrock and sand. Smaller sand dunes comingle with rolling slabs of slickrock. This is a great place for jeeps to play.

There are some other major differences between the White Wash Sand Dunes and the other major dunes that people should know about before they pack up and head out. The White Wash Sand Dunes are free; there isn't an entrance fee to get into the dunes. They do not have facilities for you to use. Therefore, you have to bring your own method of waste disposal; burying your waste is not permissable. The White Wash Sand Dunes are much smaller than the other two dunes areas, but at the same time they don't see nearly as much traffic.

Southern Utah Trout Streams

This is a recent email exchange including a brief fishing report:

6-11-09
Hi Dave,
I will be fishing with my son in the Antimony (Otter Creek Reservoir) area starting on June 12. I'd appreciate your time and recommendations on which streams have good fishing now. How is the East Fork of the Sevier River (Kingston or Black Canyon) looking? What about some of the streams near Fish Lake?

Thanks for your time.
Regards,
Mike Z


Mike:
Runoff is just ending and so streams in that area will be high but they should be fishable. We've been getting rain many days - if it rains hard they may become muddy and that would interfere with fishing success.

The East Fork should fish well in both Black Canyon and Kingston Canyon. Kingston Canyon has a lot of private property with restricted access, but there are a few spots where you can get on and find nice fish.

Black Canyon is overgrown and rugged, but that helps keep the fishing good. It amazingly big holes where fish are often deep. If you are fly fishing it can be a challenge casting in thick brush and getting down to the fish.

Antimony Creek comes in just south of town. If you follow it up into the forest it usually offers fast fishing for mostly small trout.

Two small streams in the Fish Lake area are usually good, again for small trout. They are Sevenmile Creek above Johnson Reservoir and UM Creek above Forsyth Reservoir. They are beautiful streams.

The Fremont River below Johnson Reservoir also offers good action. It flows in and out of private property but can be quite good where access is available. Up high the fish are mostly small but there are some nice sized browns lower down.

Good luck on your trip.
Dave


6-18-09
Dave, Thanks for taking the time to respond. We fished most of the areas you mentioned and the fishing was excellent.
Mike

Lake Powell Trip Report

-- See our latest fishing report.

-- Read our Lake Powell fishing articles.

When you go to Lake Powell, what's more important than catching fish?

Well, perhaps building relationships.

I enjoyed a great trip to Powell last weekend and but I didn't even fish. That is a little bit sad, because fishing is hot down there right now, but it just means I'll have to go back in a week or two, before the fish frenzy ends.

My son, Dan, went and joined the Army Reserves. He heads off to basic training in a couple weeks. After basic, who knows where he will be. He has always loved Powell and so I wanted to give him one more trip before he goes.

Dan's wife, Jenny, came along and she is quite pregnant. Son Aaron and his pregnant wife Rebecca were also there, along with their 2.5-year-old daughter Katie. The wives and Katie had never been to the lake and so we elected to go sight seeing, hitting some of my favorite spots while avoiding long boat rides, rough water and excessive exposure to the sun.

We boated through scenic canyons, pulled people - slowly - on a play tube and enjoyed being on the lake. Katie had great fun chasing lizards. Most of us did get sunburned and I think everyone had fun. It was a great trip to build relationships.

When I go to Powell I normally camp on the beach, sleeping near places I want to fish. That provides a great advantage because the best fishing usually occurs during the early morning and late evening hours. If you have to boat from one of the marinas, you often miss great action.

This time we stayed in the developed campground at Bullfrog. It is very nice, with flush toilets and other modern facilities. During warm weather the campground is like a small city, meaning you have to put up with neighbors with dogs and loud music, but it worked out well this time.

In a couple weeks I'll do a serious Lake Powell fishing trip. I might even go down there Memorial Day weekend. That weekend is crazy on the lake, with boats and people and confusion. But the Hite area will be serene - meaning it won't have very many people - because there are limited facilities, you have to launch on an old road bed, and the water there is muddy because of runoff coming down the Colorado River.

But Hite is the closest launch point to some of the best fishing on the lake. I'll probably launch at Hite and boat down-lake toward Good Hope Bay. I'll get down past the muddy water and then camp on the beach - away from the crowds.

Bass fishing is very good right now lake-wide, and some of the best fish are being caught on broken rock in the Good Hope area. Stripers are also coming on and some nice fish will be caught trolling near the mud line (the spot where muddy river water gives way to clear lake water).

With that strategy I can enjoy a nice trip, even over the popular holiday weekend.

- Dave

Lake Powell then Boot Camp

The upcoming weekend looks perfect and so I'm heading to Lake Powell. I'll do a little fishing, a little sight seeing, plus relax and enjoy time with family.

My son, Dan, joined the Army - he heads to basic training in a couple weeks. He loves Powell and so we decided get him down there once more before he ships out.

Dan's wife, Jenny, will be coming - her first trip to the lake. They are pregnant, some 6.5 months along, so we will be taking it easy - hunting calm water.

Fishing should be superb. There will be a full moon, and that can interfere with fishing during the morning hours, but I don't think it will constrain things at this time of year. It will be beautiful camping out under that moon.

I normally camp on a beach away from the marinas - nothing better than having a remote canyon all to yourself, where you can't hear or see other humans. But this time I've elected to stay in the developed campground at Bullfrog - close to the restrooms.

My boat is running well. Had to rebuild the axle on the trailer - hope they welded the spindle on straight. The spindle is the part the wheel bearings ride on, so it holds the wheel on. Last time I towed the boat a set of bearings burned out and ruined the existing spindle. I wanted to replace the entire axle but couldn't find one that fit my boat. So I had a shop rebuild the old one. Cross your fingers.

My recreational habits are a bit streaky. For the past couple years I've been into canyon hiking, doing more of that than fishing. I think this is the year for Lake Powell. Oh, I'll do a few hikes, but I hope to get down to Powell 4-5 times. I'll buy an annual pass, so friends and family members should encourage me to use it.

I'll try to send a few Twitter messages to report from the lake. Follow me on Twitter.
- Dave

Hiking to Heaven

Why do I hike? Why do I fish? I throw countless hours and dollars and miles at these activities - what do I get back?

I've been asked to speak to a group of engineers and I will try to convince them that hiking will improve their lives and help fix the world. The company they work for offers a monthly lunch where employees can eat free if they listen to a healthy lifestyle presentation. I get a free lunch out of the deal. Not bad.

So, why do I hike and fish? Guess I better work that out before Tuesday. Here's a start.

1. I enjoy it. I enjoy being out in nature - particularly in areas with great natural beauty.

2. It helps me stay sane. The serenity in nature helps me keep my life in perspective. The rhythmic actions provide a focus for my conscious mind but leave my unconscious free to process - to sort things out. If I don't get out of town at least once a month I start to go crazy.

3. It's healthy exercise.

4. It's good for families. Spending time together, communicating, having fun... It's good for parents to structure activities that promote those things.

5. It's good for the world. Don't stop with your own kids. Take your neighbors. Work with a Scout troop. Help other people's kids.

It's good when people learn to love and respect the nature world, and to work to restore nature's balance.

I do believe activities like hiking and fishing help people fix their lives and improve the world. Convinced?

Why do you hike and/or fish?

Live where you play

With the economy picking up a bit, recreational property is starting to move. The little property marketplace on my website has been getting quite a lot of use, both from people posting properties and from potential buyers. It is turning into a good service.

I'm particularly interested in property near fishing waters. Here are a few recent posts I found tempting.

160 acres Near Yost, UT - This mountain property includes a small trout stream, complete with a good population of cutthroat trout. It is located in extreme NW Utah, in a secluded area surrounded by the Sawtooth National Forest.

2.05 Acres in Causey Estates - Above Causey Reservoir, east of Ogden. Causey is a beautiful little reservoir full of rainbows, splake and kokanee.

Strawberry Cabin - This is an existing cabin in the Bryants Fork area at Strawberry Reservoir.

There are plenty more, all around the region. Check em out.

Twitter Reports Are Working

My new service that filters Twitter to pull up relevant messages seems to be working well. Not many people are posting messages yet but the season is still young.

Right now I have pages displaying messages for these waters:
- Lake Powell
- Strawberry
- Green River
- Provo River
- Willard Bay
- Utah Lake

When I post an update it appears on the page within a matter of seconds. I can post by just sending a text message from my cell phone, so it is easy.

The filter looks for key words. For example, any message including "Lake Powell" will appear on the Lake Powell page. It isn't perfect, some extraneous messages get through. But over all, it works well.

If several of us post messages while we are out fishing, we will have a valuable service that is almost real time. See my previous post for more info.

Real-Time Fishing Updates Via Twitter

Do you twitter? I've signed on and started to experiment to see how to use it to advantage. You can see my messages here.

I've learned to filter twitter to pull out messages on specific topics, and embed those messages into pages on my website. Right now I'm embedding filtered messages into these pages:
- Lake Powell
- Willard Bay
- Utah Lake

The interesting thing about twitter is you can send updates from a cell phone or satellite phone. So if people send good info about their trips, we can have almost-real-time updates on fishing at particular waters. That could be cool.

At Lake Powell I get cell coverage in a few spots. With one of Russ Smith's satellite phones I could send from almost anywhere. So, I might send a series of messages like this.

#1 - Just arrived at Lake Powell, Bullfrog, waiting to launch.

#2 - We're cruising up Lake Powell, heading toward Red Canyon.

# 3 - Marked a huge school of stripers at Lake Powell, in a small canyon off Good Hope. Slowing down to troll.

#4 - Lake Powell Good Hope Bay, Shad Rap hasn't worked, changing to a Wally Diver.

#5 - Bingo. We had simultaneous striper hookups at Lake Powell, Good Hope, trolling Walley Divers down about 20 feet.

#6 - Help. Just ran out of gas at Lake Powell. Help?

Every message has to include the phrase "Lake Powell" to be picked up and displayed on my Lake Powell Twitter page. Other messages including that phrase will also be displayed, intermixed with mine. If we get several people posting, it could be a very good service.

I'll try it and see how it works. I'm always interested in comments and suggestions.

- Dave

Kolob Arch on One Leg

Weather was perfect Saturday (3-28-09), so I hiked to Kolob Arch in the Zion National Park backcountry. It was a great hike through beautiful country, to an impressive natural arch.

(Also see our our photos and video clip.)

I went in on two legs, but only had one good leg for the hike out. I was looking for photo opts instead of watching the trail. I slipped while crossing a steep slope and fell hard, twisting my right ankle, when we were near the top of a rugged canyon just below the arch. I could barely stand up, let alone walk, but I bravely started the long trek back to the truck. What else could I do? The pain was intense and for a time I thought maybe my hiking career was over - that I'd have to start spending my spare time fishing from my boat.

With considerable exertion, I found I could scoot and crab-walk over obstacles and then hobble up the more level portions of the trail. After a couple miles I actually started to feel a little better, when the ankle limbered up a bit and the Ibuprofen kicked in. I made it out without any further problems.

I'm already noticing daily improvement so I'll probably be out hiking again in 2-3 weeks. That's good because there are a couple more major hikes on my spring agenda. (Just fun little outings like Buckskin Gulch and Dark Canyon.)

It's 6.5 miles to the viewpoint below the arch, from the Lees Pass Trailhead in the Kolob Canyons area of Zion Park. It is a moderate hike along well-defined trails that follow Timber Creek and then La Verkin Creek into the backcountry. A side canyon forks from La Verkin Creek and you follow it for about 1/2 mile up to a viewpoint below the arch.

From the trailhead you drop quickly to Timber Creek, and that means you face a steep uphill climb at the very end of your return trip, most commonly experienced during the afternoon when the sun is hot. The trail is mostly flat along La Verkin Creek. You trudge through some sand but it is relatively easy going. The side canyon that you follow from La Verkin Creek up to the arch is steep and full of big rocks, so that leg requires some scrambling.

All in all, I'd rate the route as moderate, although the National Park Service has it as strenuous.

Another option is to start on Kolob Terrace and hike down Hop Valley to La Verkin Creek, down La Verkin Creek, up the side canyon, up the side canyon to the arch, and down La Verkin Creek so you can end at Lees Pass. That route is about 14.5 miles one-way and requires a vehicle shuttle.

We did it as a day hike - taking about 7.5 hours, even with the sprained ankle. Many people do it as an overnight backpack. There are excellent formally designated camping sites along the trail. Day hikers don't need any special pass, but backpackers much get an overnight permit. The permits go fast so plan ahead if you want to backpack.

Water is abundant along the route, but you need to filter or treat it. La Verkin Creek was running high and muddy, and wasn't appealing. After runoff it will be much cleaner. It does offer several very nice swimming holes. Timber Creek and the small stream the comes down the side canyon below the arch both offer clear, cold water.

Kolob was long though to be the largest natural arch in the world, but recent measurements show its span is slightly smaller than Landscape Arch. So, Kolob has been bumped to number two.

The arch is a spectacular sight - definitely worth seeing. But the entire route is enjoyable, with classic Zion Park scenery.

This is a backcountry area - one of the most park's most popular backcountry areas - so plan on seeing people along the route. Spring and fall are ideal times to hike. Temps are very hot in July and August.

You cross Timber Creek multiple times, but it is small and easy to rock hop with dry boots. Unless you have a sprained ankle, and then rock hopping becomes torturous. I suspect the hike is more enjoyable when you have two good legs.

Room With A View In Monument Valley

Travelers now have the option of staying right in Monument Valley, in a new hotel located right at the Navajo Tribal Park. The hotel is called The View and it offers the only lodging available right in the valley.

The new hotel is described in this St Louis Post-Dispatch article. Apparently many people find the article interesting because it is now being reprinted by many new organizations. Below are excerpts.

The View Hotel looks out on one of the most spectacular vistas in the Southwest, the red-rock monoliths rising from the desert floor of Monument Valley. The hotel is the only lodging inside the valley, which straddles the Utah-Arizona border on reservation lands. Each balcony at the hotel frames three of the most famous of the formations, the two Mittens and Merrick Butte.

The enchanting landscape is one of the most photographed in America, and not just by tourists. Visitors to the valley some 60 years ago could have watched John Wayne chase Indians for the filming of John Ford's epic westerns.
Fifteen years ago, you could have seen Forrest Gump stop running.

The Ortega family, Navajos with a longtime reputation as entrepreneurs, built The View Hotel and pay a guest tax to the tribe. The hotel is an effort by the Navajo to bring jobs and visitors to their land. The Hopi, whose reservation is surrounded by the Navajo Nation, also are increasing tours of their villages and building their own hotel in Tuba City.

Harold Simpson, 42, is a Navajo who was born and reared in Monument Valley and now owns a company that gives driving tours of the tribal lands, including areas that are off limits without a guide. "That's our sandbox out there," Simpson said, as his brother, Richard Frank, drove a van over the rutted red-dirt road. "We played in the rocks, climbed in the sand dunes. I was the cowboy, he was the Indian."

Simpson welcomed the opening of The View as a boost to his business.

"We get about 300,000 visitors a year — the Grand Canyon gets into the millions, but that's too much, too overcrowded," he said. "They built the hotel on the perfect spot. Environmentally, they've tried to do the right thing with it. Visitors didn't have a lot of choices out here. Most people would drive in for the day and move on.

"The hotel is a good thing. Monument Valley is a special place. It's home, for us."

Grand Gulch Then and Now

My Icebreaker Backpacking Trip

(See more photos from this trip)

I pushed the season and enjoyed a great backpacking trip into Grand Gulch last weekend. We went in on Feb 27 - I think that's the earliest I've ever backpacked in Utah. We encountered a little ice and snow in spots, but not enough to cause problems. And we had the canyon's ancient ruins all to ourselves.

Grand Gulch is a beautiful canyon - it would be worth hiking there just to see the scenery. The big attractions are the many Anasazi (Ancestral Puebloan) archaeological sites. I'm fascinated by the sites and enjoy searching them out.

The Anasazi culture thrived in the Four Corners area some 1,000 years ago. The people formed large communities and built impressive rock structures in the area's rugged canyons. They also left interesting rock art.

You can see impressive Anasazi structures in many places in SW Utah along roadsides or at the end of short hikes. Why would someone want to put in the effort to backpack?

Well, I'm one of those crazy people who enjoy backpacking - getting away from civilization. Grand Gulch is pristine. As you drop down into the gorge you walk away from our modern world. There is no litter in the canyon - not a candy wrapper or coke can. No human sounds save our light footsteps. When the sunsets and the stars come out, they are unbelievably bright. It is a great experience in one of the few places you can still find solitude.

There are usually a few other people in the canyon. You have to obtain permits to hike or backpack there and the number of visitors is controlled to ensure a quality experience. If you want to go, get permits well in advance.

In Grand Gulch, most of the ancient sites still contain artifacts, and that adds to the interest. There are pottery shards everywhere. There are also ancient corncobs and grindstones and other items. More accessible sites have been stripped of artifacts - the stone walls and rock art remain but everything else has been hauled away by vandals.

It has been about 10 years now since my first pilgrimage into Grand Gulch. On this trip I intentionally retraced my original steps and photographed some of the same sites I had visited back then. I was curious to compare photos and see how much had changed during that time span.

Unfortunately, I have to report that I could not find some of the interesting artifacts I photographed 10 years ago. At one site, known as Perfect Kiva Ruin, my old photos show braided cords and a ceramic jug handle, but those items were not to be found.

There were impressive piles of pottery shards, but apparently not the same shards I saw 10 years ago. Every time the wind blows more shards are uncovered. Unfortunately, it appears that some hikers are taking them home. That is illegal and immoral and dastardly, but it appears to be happening.

These sites are fragile. At one point, grave robbers were the biggest threat to their survival. Robbers would bring in equipment and pound sites into rubble, searching for valuable items they could sell. Authorities have cracked down and that kind of activity in now rare. Now the biggest danger comes from respectful hikers, fascinated by the artifacts, who can't resist handling them and taking the pretty ones home.

I'll go back in 10 years and, hopefully, there will still be shards on the ground.
On this trip we took our time, pushed into rugged side canyons, and saw more ruins than I've seen on any of my previous trips. We also saw far more rock art on this trip.

We went in from the Bullet Canyon Trailhead and camped down near Perfect Kiva. From there we hiked and explored, and then returned up Bullet Canyon to our vehicle.
I had hoped to hike down to the Big Man rock art panel, about 9 miles below the junction of Bullet Canyon and Grand Gulch. Unfortunately, time did not allow for that excursion. I hope to get back down there within a few weeks and search that out.

The hiking/backpacking season is just getting started. The ice and snow we encountered with probably be gone within a week or so. Daytime temperatures were nice - perfect for hiking. Nights were cold, but we were prepared for that.

Temperatures will moderate quickly now. March, April and May are ideal months to hike Utah's desert canyons. Summers are very hot and hiking activity wanes. Activity picks up again as temperatures cool in fall.

Grand Gulch is one of my favorites. I recommend it.

- Dave Webb

Early Backpack into Grand Gulch

I'll be backpacking into Grand Gulch this weekend, taking advantage of the marvelous spring-like weather we are enjoying.

It is a little early in the season for such a backpack - so, I'm being cautious. As a sign that I'm getting old, I actually called the BLM ranger down there and asked about conditions. He said we shouldn't have any problem. Perhaps a little snow in shady areas, and some mud, but very nice conditions overall.

My purpose for this trip is to get photos and video that represent the Grand Gulch backpack experience. They will go on my site, and probably also on utah.com. So, I'll be working while I enjoy one of the best backpacking destinations on earth.

I plan to visit Perfect Kiva Ruin. I have photos of artifacts I took there about 10 years ago. It will be interesting to compare and see if any of those artifacts are still there.

The "normal" backpack route is down Kane Gulch, from the ranger station, and then out Bullet Canyon. That's about 23 miles and we would need two vehicles. Could do it in two days but three would be more comfortable.

We will probably focus on ruins near the junction of Bullet Canyon and Grand Gulch, going in and out Bullet. That is about 14 miles round trip from the trailhead to the junction and back. So, one night in the canyon will be sufficient.

That will give me a chance to day hike to another destination - probably the Big Man rock art panel. It is in Grand Gulch, about 9 miles below the Bullet Canyon Junction. The best way to see it is by coming into Grand Gulch via the Government Trail along Pollys Canyon. It's only about 10 miles round trip.

My buddies at KSL Radio want me to pack in a satellite phone so I can call the outdoors program Saturday morning. I suppose I will. With the phone and my camera gear, I'll be carrying about 20 pounds of electronic on top of my normal gear.

Should be a fun trip.